Simple is the new black

Lanvin Homme - Winter 2017

by TEAM PARIS SOCIAL DIARY, photography by COURTESY | 24 January, 2017

A word is displayed on the first look and sets the tone for this Winter 2017 collection.

Nothing”. It’s a hint left on a scarf, like a clue left by Lucas Ossendrijver. This season there is no elaborate concept, no decorative effect. “I wanted to concentrate on the essence of the design, the construction and proportions”, explains the artistic director of the Lanvin men’s ready to wear collection. The outside world and everyday life were used as the foundation for this collection, which is inspired by the poetry of an unexpected detail, the subtlety of a shift, the humility of a fabric.

Emblematic elements of the masculine wardrobe – check shirts, parka, duffle-coat or chino pants- have all been reworked, enriched and sublimated, without ever becoming precious.

Because here luxury is not seen in decoration but in simplicity. Although materials are natural – cotton, leather, wool -, the looks are new thanks to ingenious work on shape and construction:. The most extreme shapes have fun with volumes. More than ever before it’s the technique, the work on fabrics, the play on proportions and shifts that sublimate everyday ítems.

Finally leather is the object of quite particular work, whether dyed in bright colours, sewn in patchwork for a jacket, hand-rubbed for a Perfecto jacket or laminated with insets of wool and cotton on a coat.

The casting is made up of strong characters and reflects a collection where variety and mixture must be welcomed and celebrated. “This season, although the designs are very studied, they are also easier, more rooted in reality where nothing is uniform. In this sense I wanted this collection to be a punch rather than a caress” says Ossendrijver.