The chokha, Georgian warrior dress, sets the premise for a masculine sense of militaria reflected in a reinterpretation of the fur cape worn as part of the traditional medieval uniform, in llama collars and trims on coats and dresses. A relic from the age of muskets, ornamental mesri cartridge holes typically found on army tunics appear in futuristic adaptations throughout the collection.
Dresses and tops in floral macramé and silk lace with bugles and stones evoke an idea of camouflage, a battlefield reference cemented in a palette of khaki and army greens, as well as burnt orange, black and bright navy. It is further established in quilted leather and nylon, and in puffa jackets.
David Koma’s signature romance with 1960s’ Space Age remains intact, but it is persistently influenced by the folkloric, in the ruffled hems of ankle-length skirts or the exaggerated flair of trousers. The Georgian collection marks the second chapter in a study of David Koma’s upbringing, following last season’s Romanov reflection of his youth in Saint Petersburg.
